Alright resin community, it’s time for some real talk: If you’ve ever found yourself at your workstation thinking, "Wait… should I be using coating resin or casting resin on this?" — you are certainly not alone. It’s one of those beginner questions that even pros mess up sometimes. And spoiler alert: using the wrong one can totally ruin your project (yep, we’ve cried over sticky keychains too).
So here’s the lowdown on resin coating vs casting—what makes them different, how to get better at both, and exactly when to use which. Let’s help you get confident from confused.

What Is the Difference?
You can think of it like this:
Coating resin = the top coat. Take shiny finishes, sealed surfaces, protective coatings.
Casting resin = the mold filler. As in deep pours, shaped and detailed, 3-dimensional.
Even though they are both epoxy resins, the formulas are designed for very different ways of doing the work.
Fast Facts: Coating vs Casting Resin
Feature |
Coating Resin |
Casting Resin |
Texture |
Thick (like syrup) |
Thin (like pancake batter) |
Pour Depth |
Shallow (< 1/4 inch) |
Deep (1 inch or more) |
Cure Time |
Fast (24–48 hours) |
Slow (48 hrs–7 days) |
Bubble Behavior |
Bubbles get trapped |
Bubbles float up & pop easily |
Use Cases |
Tabletops, coasters, painting finish |
Jewelry, molds, river tables |
Mix Ratio |
Often 1:1 |
Usually 2:1 or 3:1 |
Coating Resin: When You Wanna Seal the Deal
Coating resin is your go-to when the goal is shine, protection, and surface glam. It’s made to sit on top—not sink in.
Use it for:
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Covering acrylic paintings, photos, or boards
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Giving coasters a durable, glossy finish
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Resin ocean art (hello wave effects!)
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Protecting wood tables from wear and water rings
Master It:
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Pour in thin layers—thicker = bad news
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Use a heat gun or torch to blast surface bubbles
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Let it self-level; don’t mess with it too much
Pro Tip: Coating resin is also self-healing to some extent. Light scratches? Often disappear over time.
Casting Resin: The Mold Queen
Casting resin is made for volume. It’s thinner, slower to cure, and absolutely perfect for anything you want to pour into a mold or build up in layers.
Use it for:
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Jewellery, charms, trays, paperweights
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Preserving flowers or keepsakes inside resin
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Pouring river tables or geode slabs
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Making crystal-clear keychains or pyramids
Master It:
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Pour slowly to avoid air pockets
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Work in layers if you're going for depth
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Let it cure at room temp—too much heat = bubbles city
Pro Tip: Because casting resin is slow-curing, it gives you way more time to play with swirls and designs.
Still Confused? Ask These 3 Questions
1. Am I applying a coating or filling a mold?
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If Surface = Coating
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If Mold = Casting
2. Do I want to focus on shine or shape?
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If you want Shine = Coating
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If you want Shape = Casting
3. Is this a fast project or a slow pour one?
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If your pour is Fast = Coating
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If your pour is Slow = Casting
Can You Mix Them Up?
Using coating resin for a deep mold = a gooey mess that may never fully cure.
Using casting resin as a surface coat = thin, runny layer that might spill over or stay tacky.
They’re not interchangeable, but they can be teammates. Cast your piece with one resin, then finish it with a glossy coat from the other.
Wrap-Up: Pick Your Pour Like a Pro
Coating and casting resins are like cousins—they look alike, but they’re built for different things. Once you understand how they behave, you’ll never have to guess again.
Want that glassy top layer? Go coating.
Want a chunky, clear mold masterpiece? Go casting.
Want both? Go bold—but go smart.
And if you need high-quality resin (with options for both styles), you already know where to head: Tulsi Resin. We’ve got everything you need to pour like a pro—minus the panic.
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